Well. It was an interesting run for Picton Castle and crew from Espiritu Santo, Vanuatu, over the western South Pacific, for 25 days. Specifically, the Coral Sea, through the Torres Strait (in only 18 hours mind you!) and then into the extreme eastern reaches of the Indian Ocean, aka the Arafura and Timor Seas. Excellent sailing from Santo up to “Bligh’s Entrance” (remember that guy?), perfect winds on the quarter. Just right it was – and no sailing ever since that halfway point. We have been motoring ever since. So it goes, I guess. A total of 3,200 miles from Santo to Bali. Halfway under sail but also half the miles under power – ugh. But we have made good time and as hot as it has been, it actually could have been hotter. And the crew got lots of good work done to the ship on the way – and gained a couple days too, which will be welcome in Bali.
Sailmaking, ratlines replaced, rigging slushed, anchor windlass overhauled, fore standing rigging screws taken apart and overhauled, deck work and caulking, varnishing new and old wood work, and all the rest. I would like to have had more workshops but these are hard to do under power.
We had a big southerly swell as we approached Bali. Lots of big ship traffic north and south bound in Selat Lombok, the straights separating Bali and Lombok. Some strong currents too, so sometimes we were making 4 knots and at others 8.5 knots. Plenty small fishing craft all over the last night out.
We slipped into the full anchorage of Serangan and anchored about 1230 just off the channel before shifting berths over to a couple big moorings the agents arranged for us. There really was no place we could reliably anchor for any length of time. All the ladies from the ship’s agency made a special welcome for us. Our dear friend I Made Alon, tour guide extraordinaire, gave us an introduction to Bali while we waited. After three or four hours we were all cleared with stamped passports back onboard. A big boat load of mail came aboard. Kate is very popular. We had a small signing off ceremony we do for those headed off the ship. Before we dark those signing off the ship and the free-watches were ashore and taking in Bali here at Serangan. Some headed off to Kuta and others straight for Ubud – let Bali begin!
Tammy, Dirk and I got ashore as well. After a skiff run through all the anchored vessels, some yachts, many ferries, and more local wooden ships and any number of colourful outrigger boats with outriggers on both sides, we pushed in amongst the tethered small boats at the long floating dinghy dock. At the head of this crowded floating small boat dock is a “warung.” What is a warung? Sort of a small casual local neighborhood café or restaurant with a small menu and usually cold Bintang beer in the fridge. Maybe it’s Balinese for home grown diner. This warung was built out over the water. Plenty of Balinese relaxing under the tin roof, clove cigarettes in abundance. Nasi goreng (a fried rice dish), mei goreng (much the same but with noodles, often topped with a fried egg). Tasty and inexpensive. This warung was very welcoming and soon we were relaxing with the above and a view of the busy crowded and far eastern harbour. Later we took a walk around the water’s edge and found a roadside sate stall. The best sate you can find is at these stalls. FYI- sate is little BBQed sticks of chicken, pork or beef with a sweet peanut sauce. Delicious. And the cold drinks go down pretty well too.
