Yesterday we sailed away from Papeete, Tahiti in the Barque Picton Castle.
Our days had been full in Papeete. Crew had run around all over the place, checking out waterfalls, surfing, shopping. Good friends from Pitcairn, Dennis Christian and Sue O’Keefe, showed up so we went to Matavai Bay, the other half of the Bounty origin story, and beautiful as well. Long curved black sand beach leading out to Cook’s Point Venus. Once the main harbour of Tahiti before Papeete was built up in the early 1800s, if you squint your eyes just right you can be transported back into olden times. Quiet and serene it is easy to imagine big outriggers pushing off into the surf to raid other islands or vist ships like the Endeavour or Bounty ages ago, it looks little different. I have always wanted to anchor at Matavai. Perhaps another time? Families were picnicing and swimming and so did we. Just lovely.
The crew found that last classic old school waterfront tavern and enjoyed themselves there among the friendly and heavily tattooed clientele. Further down the waterfront Le Retro played Tahitian music and made us feel welcome with morning coffee and croissants. Big food shopping with Donald, Tammy, and Jeremie at Carrefour, as good a supermarket as you will find anywhere. Filled up five BIG carts. Fueling up on the ship taking on nine tons. Sailmaking on the dock, laying out two upper topsails and an inner jib. We will stich these together at sea. Big cruise ships coming and going in the big busy harbour. At our wharf was a 280 foot super-yacht called Artefact. An ‘expedition’ yacht and a curious research vessel shared our wharf. Constant vehicular trafic along the waterfront, and plenty motorscooters. Where do these cars come from? Where are they going? Never ends it seems, and plenty of rain.
But on sailing day the sun broke through beautifully. By 0900 all hands were aboard and the ship was ready to sail. Yards braced up for sailing with all sails loosed. Hawsers singled up down to the bare minimmu to hold us in the calm, with all chafe-gear removed, engine warmed up. Immigration folks came by to make sure we were all onboard with a passport – face check. All done. Pilot aboard and we awaited final clearance. This important paper in hand, gangway slides aboard, fire up main engine, a kick astern, back down on a crackling stern spring, then ahead on the main engine, the skiff pushes the bow around and we shape up for the pass, around the bow of a huge containership. Once in the pass and our jibboom pointed seaward our gracious pilot hopped down into the pilot boat standing by and waved us off. Thems that had flower leis around their necks took them and tossed them into the sea. This to ensure a return some day. An ancient tradition that seems to work.
Whales were breaching just outside the pass. Quite a show. Within moments the crew were cracking on sail. The breezes funnel between Tahiti and Moorea pretty fresh and soon we were making over 8 knots leaving cloud capped Tahiti astern on beautiful South Pacific Ocean day, westward bound for Tonga. As we made our way north of Moorea we were sent off on our sea-going way by some playful dolphins.