After a good, sometimes boisterous, passage from Tahiti we sailed up into the lee of Palmerston Atoll in the Cook Islands for an unplanned visit. We are halfway from Tahiti to Vava’u, Tonga.
When we were in Tahiti we had gotten an email from the island administration asking what was the ship’s ETA at Palmerston so they could get ready for us and that the whole island was excited that we were coming. Picton Castle has visited many times in the past and had wonderful visits each time. Over the years we have brought tons of supplies and homeward bound folks to Palmerston from Rarotonga. One voyage we had a crew member from Palmerston, Taia. We replied that while we would be sailing nearby on our rhumbline course to Tonga, we could not make it to Palmerston this time and that we were not able to clear in there anyway. They said, but YA GOTTA come! And it turns out we could clear in remotely with some effort. So with some help from differents folks includig our excellent agent in Rarotonga Vina Manuel, we got this sorted out and we are able to spend a couple days at this beautiful atoll with some good friends of the ship. It would be a shame to sail on by.
Discovered by Captain Cook a century earlier to be uninhabited, but with signs of previous habitation, Palmerston Atoll is well known for having been settled by one English mariner and shipwright, William Marsters, and what became his three wives in 1868. A longer story there to be sure. The folks who live here are all descended from them – and of course from others as well. In fact, whenever you meet a “Marsters” anywhere in the Pacific, no doubt they hail from this small atoll. There have been plenty of genetic contributions along the way with new folks from many other islands and countries but a unifying feature is the descent from William and wives from nearby islands. Unfortunately I do not have the names of these three at hand to note here.
All who call Palmerston home live on the one motu at the southwest corner of the atoll ring and naturally it is called “Home Island.” Home Island is right near the best boat passes through the reef. The old Polynesian name for Palmerston means “many passes”, “Avaroa”? There are 8-10 other motus of various sizes around the barrier reef, all uninhabited but visited for camping or hunting coconut crabs fom time to time. A couple of the motus are about the same size as Home Island which is about roughly half a mile in diameter and close to round in shape. Sandy, palm and hardwood tree covered with the land mostly about 6-8 feet high off the sea – not so much. There is a high spot about 15 feet high in the middle. You can walk around island at a leisurely pace in about 45 minutes and end up where you started. The lagoon full of black-tip and grey sharks is a beautiful array of variations of turquoise in the sunlight.
Atoll life includes a lot of fishing and gardening and craft making but the main industry of Palmerston is hospitality. And music, great guitar and ukelele players. The greater Marsters family are keen hosts, and don’t we love it! Supply ships are infrequent, so it is very hard to come to Palmerston – and hard to get off as well. Covid did some hurt to the island as for a couple years there were very few visiting vessels. It is also a problem that yachts must clear into Raratonga first before coming here. Many cruising yachts do not go to Rarotonga as the harbour is tight there and a problem in northerly winds and swells. So, without going to Rarotonga first they cannot visit Palmerston. Too bad, all are missing out – even Raro misses out on the revenue from this. Maybe the good folks in Rarotonga can sort something out in the future. The out island of Aitutaki is a clearing in port, why not Palmerston? This would help Palmerston a lot, and help keep the population up. But anyway, here comes Picton Castle.
A week after casting our flower leis into the pass of Papeete we sailed around to the west side Palmertston Atoll under lower topsails and foresail and a couple staysails – we had shortened down sail a lot in an effort to slow down over the previous day or two. I had earlier figured we would arrive Wednesday but strong winds from astern pushed us along. The Picton Castle rounded the southwest point of the reef near Home Island in to the lee about 0900 Tuesday. Almost suddenly the big South Pacific seas were gone and we were in calm waters. Then we hove-to for a spell to wait for a squall rolling down across the lagoon to pass before heading close and anchoring right near the reef on a shelf. No sense in trying to anchor in such a place in strong winds and poor visibility. We took in remaining sail, with the squall passing we fired up the main engine and steered in for the reef. Edward Marsters and his son John came out in a boat to help us to spot the right place to drop the anchor upon a coral shelf very close to the reef. When properly anchored at Palmerston the anchor may be in 30 feet of water on a coral shelf, and the stern might be in hundrerds of feet or more. This is the only way to anchor here. As long as the anchor holds and the winds stay steadily out of an eatsterly sector (SE – ENE) the ship will be fine. Also keep a good sized gang aboard to get underway quickly if needed. And steely-eyed constant vigilance. Like at Pitcairn, we also do not want to swamp the small population of about 30 with all 45 of us at once. There are more Pictons than there are Palmerstons!
We anchored about 1000. But the anchor did not catch well, and we dragged off right away. The trick is to anchor fiendishly close to the reef. We did not get quite close enough and the anchor tumbled down the slope outside the ledge. Nothing to do but haul it back. With 200′ of heavy chain and a 1,000 pound anchor up and down, in the lee of the atoll we found the windlass was not working properly. But Dirk and I, with help from Dustin and Line, sorted it just fine and then hove in the chain okay. We re-anchored at a different spot about 1400, holding nice, weather good. Another reason for daylight arrivals, no? Dustin and Spring snorkled over to and dove on the anchor to see how it was situated – all okay. Hooked on a big chunk of island. We set the spanker to help keep the ship steady and head to wind and reduce shock loads on the anchor by a swinging ship in shifty winds. It also could be necessary to get underway and away from the island with little notice. Constant vigilance is the watchword here – and everywhere else too. Hopefully we can remain at anchor the whole tme allowed us here. This will, of course, depend on the winds and weather.
As all paperwork got sorted out – which took some time, as it was an uncommon request – we enjoyed being anchored in the beautiful setting of this South Pacific atoll, the warm tradewinds blowing over us. To windward towards the atoll we can see the low motus covered in palms and trees, the dramatic colours of the seas, reef and lagoon, small white clouds tumbling over us against a blue sky – all quite beautiful – and whales. Eventually all the papers were okay and half the gang could go in ashore AFTER full and very thorough check up onboard by the bio-security officer Juliana and nurse Melee to make sure we were bringing no undesirable pests ashore with us. Once checked out the port watch with Dirk headed in on the island’s big aluminium outboard powered boats through narrow twisty passes with seas rushing out at knots. Parts of old wrecked ships on the reef, quiet but stark reminders for us to remain vigilant at all times. Deputy Mayor Bob, Tupau, Edward, Maeva and and Arthur Neale making us feel very welcome. All were no doubt greeted by cold drinking coconuts and big hugs and were swept up by their new hosts and taken home.
We had a swim call too, which was nice.
While one half of us were ashore the other half stood by the ship. A big gang of budding sailmakers Rachel, Violet, Andreas, Toad, Liam and Alex stitched away, needle and palm, on one of the new sails we laid out in Papeete. Lisa got a good start on sanding and varnishing the teak steering gear wheelbox. Diane sanded and varnished the rails. Amelia, Marie Helene and Danielle spot painted furiously.
I mentioned whales above. What an amazing time we are having with whales here! It seems like there are about five humpbacks and a baby whale hanging around here at Palmerston. They are swimming around the ship, and I mean close, at times not more than 25 feet away, right under the stern and alongside. Blowing, laying on their backs smacking the seas surface with their fins or shooting out of the sea to maybe get a good look at us. All ship’s work stops to take this in several times a day, many times a day. Some whale watching ride this is!
Bob and Edward brought out to the duty watch some fresh caught parrot fish – in fact, we could watch them catching the fish on the reef – and chilled drinking nuts. There is nothing in the world like a fresh cool drinking coconut. The crew is learning how to whack open a coconut with out hacking off their hands. Arthur generously told us of the history of Palmerston, and of traditions and customs of the island. Like many outer islands, de-population is a big enough issue.
With a growing moon shining on the seas astern to the west and the incessant low rumbling of sea breaking on the barrier reef to windward and to the east, these are days and nights to remember. What is the watch ashore doing? We will find out. Our anchor is holding fine and it is beautiful night onboard Picton Castle at Palmerston Atoll. I am writing his around about 0400 as a couple squalls pass by. The anchor watch is keeping a good lookout. All is well enough. I can see some squalls coming to windward.