The short passage from Pitcairn to Mangareva just past was quite a ride! Only 300 miles and typically, and historically in my modest experience, a sweet, pleasant romp downwind in fine sunny southeast tradewinds on the quarter. Not this time. Quite the rollercoaster, under lower topsails and fore course, we rode over some big seas. As much as we would have liked more days at Pitcairn we could not stay, not possible. I was not crazy about getting too far to the west too rapidly either, which with these strong northeasterly winds would have been inevitable without trying to go slow. Going slow is not always easy when its blowing so hard. The ship did just fine through it all though. She is one hell of a great seagoing vessel. Never has let me down.
As we approached Mangareva I had to make the call whether to stay at sea overnight, anchor in howling winds near the barrier reef, or get into the inner lagoon at Rikitea. We went in. Squirming in the skinny dog-legged pass into the lagoon at Rikitea just about dusk, with strong winds astern, a failing light ahead, and in my eyes, a narrow twisty coral-head studded pass, was dodgy and tense. Coming in like this was against all the rules for such tropical piloting reef – but given conditions as well as the conditions soon expected, not a lot of choices. I told the crew as much – do not do this if ever you come hereabouts in another ship or your own boat. In any case, we got into the placid lagoon and anchored as evening settled, without a hitch. We found good holding in hard sand away from the gooey draggy center of the lagoon. We had a calm night at last.
This is not your typical coconut-milk-run passage-making for us these days this time around. This is the fifth time I have passed through this region under sail around this time of year, and the tenth time in all, this here Galapagos to Tahiti routing by way of Pitcairn/Mangareva. Over the many years and passages it has in fact been pretty nice every time this seafarer has come this way. Winter or summer. Well, as different and even as challenging as it is, we are getting some great sailing in and everyone is coming along as seasoned seafarers.
I was expecting to set off on the 900 miles to Tahiti a couple days ago but between downpours, poor visibility, fronts moving around, and the fact I have seven new trainees, as well as a crew that have been at anchor a long time, the prudent thing to do was to stay another day and drill all hands in seamanship things. Good to do. Get the kinks out. Bracing the yards, loosing and setting/taking sails, and getting out in the longboat, all good things to do to get them focused on the days ahead. Winds look good for a while according to the forecasts we get. Looking forward to some nice old sunny blue-sky Force 4 tradewind sailing soon. Although more awesome islands to come, Mangareva will be one of this voyage’s big South Pacific ports. The crew made friends and connected, Mangarevans were delightfully gracious and friendly to us all.
But now time to make westing. From Tahiti, maybe Moorea, then on to Vava’u, Tonga; Fiji; Vanuat;, Bali.
Kittens? Well, as it turns out our agent in Galapagos was wrong, of course we could bring our cats to Galapagos on Picton Castle. They just need to stay aboard, of course, no? So said the Quarantine Officer who came aboard. But of course, right here in Rikitea two cute little kittens have made their way onboard. And quite sweet they are. Riki and Tea, naturally. Smart friendly little guys. And worming their way into hearts aboard. No doubt further reports to come on the adventures of Riki and Tea. So far fitting in aboard right smartly. Clever little rascals.
Rikitea was good to us. We did manage to make a new stock for our big port bower anchor, topsides got painted, some sailmaking. I have a couple folks I know here (thanks to Raruna and Tehotu!) and lots of good stuff to do. Long boat trips around to Aukena, an island three miles away, hiking, friendly island tours by Fabrice and others, baguettes and coconuts, a couple dinners aboard, school groups, steak/frites at JoJo’s and another snack shop, school kids dancing, black pearl acquisition as well as visits to black pearl farms. An excellent tattoo artist got busy here as well, Roberto. Sorry moms and dads, it was inevitable.
Interesting to watch the supply ships come in and discharge. Bigger than Picton Castle, they mince their way in through the pass, get alongside and then there is an explosion of activity. The wharf comes alive. Sleepy and quite most of the time, turns into quite the circus with the ship discharging. Seems like the whole island shows up for this. Pallets, small conatainers, bundles of timbers, stacks of this and that. All quite organized, forklifts shunting all over. Then the loading begins. All the big one-ton bags of plastics got loaded. In the morning the ship was gone and the wharf was quiet as can be again. A couple dogs, a couple kids, and the old cashiered small ferry boat rocking to her mooring ropes. All quiet.
Good anchor holding here too. Blew stiff through here a few days ago, and it was pretty fine to be tied at a wharf that night. Now must go, gotta go.
Huzzah for Otahiti!
