The Galapagos Islands are right on the equator at about 90 degrees west longitude. Pitcairn Island lays just outside the tropics at 24 South and 135 West longitude, and is 2,700 nautical miles away from the Galapagos Islands. There is nothing in between these two legandary iconic places besides ocean. No place to pull over, just ocean and lots of it.
We set sail from the Galapagos Islands and slipped away from Baltra, sailed north of Santa Cruz, passing between these magestic mysterious islands, pushed down west of Santa Cruz past the Island Of No Name and made departure from Isabela (penguins on Isabela missed us) and headed out into the open South Pacific Ocean this past Tuesday, four days ago. Now the Picton Castle is in fresh SE tradewinds, sailing strong at 6-7 knots, headed and bound for Pitcairn Island, many miles away, having been under sail ever since.
While we are all excited about the destination of Pitcairn, (especially those of us returning to see friends again, how could we not be?), it is the passage of thousands of miles under sail in these tropical tradewinds that is the thing right now.
So far the yards have been hard on the backstays as the ship is braced up sharp on the port tack. We are sailing “full and by the wind”. This means that the yards and sails are trimed close in and that we are steering to keep the sails full and the ship moving as best as she can. But not “pinching” her. Pinching is when the sails appear full but the ship slows down too much. Stalls out, so to speak. Soon we expect the wind to fair, meaning that as we make our way towards the SW the winds should start coming more and more out of the east and less southerly. Then we can ease the braces, brace the yards in and get winds over the quarter instead of abeam or even ahead of abeam, as they have been since setting sail.
The gang is getting accustomed to the routines of an “old tyme” square-rigger at sea. Getting into the rhythms of the days. Watches, must get up for your watch. Look out forward, with nothing to see but the sea, blue waves, some white caps and shoals of flying fish bursting out of the sea. Perhaps they are being chased by a mahimahi. Then they need to watch out for the booby birds overhead waiting to pounce and get a meal. Sail handling for squalls, day or night: get the flying jib in, smartly now! Take in the spanker, so we can run off easily. Oh, yes, and close skylights and doors to keep us dry below.
Many routines are followed at sea, and we are just getting into them. But for now know that we are in our element, learning what we need to learn and looking forward to watching the Southern Cross emerge every evening as the sun sets and gives us a starry dome above the swaying yards in silhouette. And squalls…