The Panama Canal takes thousands of miles off a passage to and from the Pacific for any vessel. But it was rare indeed in the later years of commercial sail for a big commercial sailing ship to use the Canal. For a relatively small fee from a tug a sailing ship could save months at sea. But this happened only occasionally. Why might this be? The Picton Castle crew would find out. Basically, a sailing ship without an engine could be weeks either approaching the Canal from the Pacific or trying to head out that way. Easy enough to sail up to the Caribbean side from the east but very difficult for a non-powered square-rigger to make her was east against the strong tradewinds thereabouts.
About three days out of Taboga, motoring in hot muggy damp calms we reached 2 degrees North Latitude about 150 miles off the coast of Ecuador. On an east west line lays this apparent shift in weather. When studying weather maps it would appear to be an almost permanent weather fixture. The overcast clears away, blue sky opens up and a usable and fairly steady southerly breeze makes up. Well, this all did for us this time. And what a difference it makes to be under sail again with clear skies and a cool breeze filling our canvas!
With a southerly breeze and clear skies, our barque Picton Castle fell off on the port tack with yards braced up sharp against the starboard backstays. All sail loosed and set after days of mouldering in the hot damp doldrums. Soon, all sail was drawing and the engine was silent once again. Halyards stretched out, sheets taking a strain again. Soon the ship sails By The Wind, “full and by,” making courses that will have us cross the equator and get into Wreck Bay, San Cristobal, Galapagos, Ecuador. But later for that, right now it is just a delight to be under sail again and drying out. Soon enough we were surrounded by flying fish and dolphin. Booby birds began to find us and congregate aloft. For some reason they loved to perch on the main t’gallant braces. We had as many as 53 booby birds and three frigate birds so at one time. Night and day. Hitching a ride? Keeping a lookout for yummy flying fish? Who knows?
An e-mail from King Neptune’s scribe is shared with all the crew as the Picton Castle approaches The Line, evidently quite closely observed…
But we are sailing again and that is the main thing.